Sunday 16 January 2011

Evolve Multiprotein shampoo Review & Discuss

Image borrowed from http://www.feelunique.com/

Rating: 2.5/5, available in 200 ml bottles from Lovelula for £9.99 (+ p&p),feelunique for £9.99/$17.08 (including worldwide delivery).
A note from us: We were worried about this post because some people turn on you the moment you bring up the fact that just maybe a product isn't what you thought it was. So in case you feel like turning on us; this is just our opinion, if you use it and you love it then we are happy. But we think that it's only fair that we all know what we're getting ourselves into :)
We're not too sure about the shampoo, it gets the job done and we have used it from time to time but as far as chemical free shampoos go...it sits close to the boundary. Which side you ask?...yeah, we're not that sure.
Let's take a closer look at the ingredients:
Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a semi-synthetic surfactant (a foaming agent) derived from coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine (also known as DMAPA). It has antibiotic and antistatic properties, but it's been associated with irritation and allergic contact dermatitis, but sources tell us that those reactions are likely to be a result of the DMAPA itself.
So here it is, your quick fire guide to the health hazards involved with DMAPA;
  1. It is corrosive to the skin and eyes, and is likely to cause sensitization by skin contact.
  2. It is a suspected environmental toxin and is toxic to aquatic species.
  3. Exposure throughout the day can cause a decrease in lung functioning.
  4. It's not mutagenic and is therefore not a carcinogen.
  5. It has been tested on animals and, while we know that it's pretty hard to come across ingredients that haven't been tested on animals, we also know that some folk don't want to be anywhere near an ingredient that has been.
  6. For an extensive report about DMAPA click here and you will be taken to the National Cancer institute's extensive report.
Sodium Coco Sulfate. Huh, have we met before? because your lathery action makes you seem oh so familar...and that name, it's like....familiar.... Of course it's familiar ladies and gentlemen, sodium coco sulfate is merely a less refined version of sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. You don't foam as well and because you are derived from coconut oil and your quality depends on crop quality, but still, you are an irritant. Your not as irritating as your more refined cousins, and you're not carcinogenic, but you still are irritating.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is a film-forming agent that retains water, promotes healing and improves hair manageability, but it can cause contact dermatitis.

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxic acid that chelates metals and might even fight free radicals, protecting skin from UV damage. It may also help rosacea symptoms and is gentle enough for sensitive skin.
In vitro animal testing research has shown mutation and it is suggested that pregnant women consult their doctor before using products containing it, other animal studies have shown brain, nervous system or behavioural effects at high doses.
However, one study found that it has anti-inflammatory and healing properties when applied topically. (Annals of Emergency Medicine, July 1994, pages 9–13).

Phospholipids are naturally derived and seems to be one of the best things in this shampoo! Phospholipids support skin physiology and contain essential nutrition for the body. For an in depth review of phospolipids click here and for one study abstract click here.


Lauryl glucoside is a sugar and lipid based surfactant that we cannot find any research for, according the the cosmetics database there are no hazards associated with it.
 

Mannitol is a naturally derived alcohol and humectant ( i.e. it preserves moisture content). Again, we've been unable to find much research on mannitol, all we know is that it is not carcinogenic.


Citric acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) that can be derived from fruits (citrus fruits, apples, berries) and fermented sugar solutions. It's used as a preservative and to control the ph balance, it is also supposed to have antioxidant and toning properties. High levels of exposure can cause mild skin and eye irritations and may increase photosensitivity. Although allergic reactions to citric acids are rare they can occur.


Sodium Benzoate  (also known as E211) is found in apples, cinnamon, cranberries, plums, prunes and ripe cloves. It acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. Although it is supposed to be a low hazard ingredient there are concerns regarding cancer, developmental and reproductive toxicity, organ system toxicity, irritation and biochemical cellular changes as an ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products. On top of that it has mutagenic effects and is not suitable for pregnant women.
Other studies have found that Sodium Benzoate can damage DNA by attacking cells mitochondria, and this can lead to malfunction and disease because mitochondria are vital to cell functioning. As a result it has been linked to a variety of neurodegenerative diseases. Hmm....not so sure about the low hazard status.


Review


To be honest, I don't even understand why Lovelula stock this item given that they have a strict policy about the ingredients in their products, they even list [allergens] as one of the ingredients on the product page. In "are natural brands really that natural?" Love from Eden was discussing her shock about naturisimo stocking something packed with chemicals, and I've got to say that I am as surprised with love lula about this shampoo.
Evolve multiprotein shampoo notches up quite a few serious health and environment concerns. although there are naturally derived products in there they have been messed with, for a better explanation of what we're trying to say here go to this article by sarma melngailis


Before the research, I was going to give this product a higher rating...the packaging is made from recycled milk bottles and the product is supposed to be organic. The promotional literature says;


Organic Food Based Ingredients - Certified Organic products based on the principle that whatever goes on your skin should be good enough to eat.


...But we wouldn't eat cocamidopropyl betaine or sodium coco sulfate, other products like dr alkaitis and bee yummy are truer to that principle and this shampoo just doesn't make the mark. It has a nice effect on your hair and despite all of the irritant warnings Em and her sensitive skin has got along with it just fine. But the same could be said for Dove shampoo.

Ingredients: Water, Aloe Vera leaf juice, Cocamidopropyl betaine, Sodium coco sulfate, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Calcium gluconate, parfum (natural fragrance), Sunflower seed oil, Sweet almond protein, Phospholipids, Lauryl glucoside, Mannitol, Citric acid, Sodium benzoate.


Thanks for reading guys!
X
If you feel like being a beauty P.I.  here are some good resources for beauty product investigation:

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